Discovering Marrakech
Morocco is a country I had not really given any though to even though I had been there three decades earlier. Back then it was another winter excursion but as a package holiday with everything thrown in to Tangier. I had enjoyed it a great deal but my travel aspirations have evolved. These day, I am an independent traveller looking to explore places without the help of a guide.
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Marrakech seemed to offer me this possibility and more. While I avoid guides when I am visiting place, I need to research a little of the destination first. I learned that one of the most interesting places to stay is in a traditional courtyard hotel called a Riad. I found the Riad Marraplace in the Marrakech Medina which was well reviewed. I secured a room for around €150* ($140) for three nights. Just before travelling, the hotel contacted me to ask if I was to have a transfer from the airport. As I knew I would be arriving relatively last I agreed and this turned out to be an excellent idea and great value for money at just €15. The driver dropped me at the edge of the Medina from where I porter took me the rest of the way through the winding alleyways.
The hotel turned out to be superbly positioned for exploring the old town. Marrakech is an extraordinarily busy city and this is apparent the moment one steps onto the main square, Jamaa el Fnaa. The combination of sounds (drums, flutes etc.) the aromas (fruit, meat and drains) and the traffic places you in a world that could not be Europe of North America. Yet, here I was on another continent having taken a flight of fewer than three hours. I remember the same culture shock from my first visit. How different so many things were and yet it was almost on my doorstep. I like Morocco for that.
It was late but not too late to eat. The hotel had offered a recommendation and I found myself scanning the menu of Tajin Darna, selecting a traditional lamb tagine with fruits, a kind of sweet stew. It was splendid and first class way to get the mind and body into the spirit of Morocco.
Next day, I decided to move away from the market place and leave my exploration of Marrakech's famous souks until later. Instead, I walked some of its highways and explored the area around the Koutoubia Mosque. Unfortunately, for the duration of my stay, it was closed as some extensive repairs are taking place. Nevertheless, it was possible to marvel at the enormous tower that overlooks the mosque which seemed quite sturdy compared with minarets that are to be found in the Middle East. It is built from pink sandstone and is decorated towards the top with local ceramic tiles. It is a great effect and it dominates the skyline.
Behind and to one side of Koutoubia are extensive gardens with fountains offering a cooling distraction from the midday sun. Marrakech is blessed with many gardens, many of which run parallel to busy streets. It is easy to step away from the hustle and bustle of the traffic to find oneself in an oasis of tranquility. Some are relatively large, others just small areas of green spaces offering shade from the sun. They are well kept and the city authorities can be proud of these wonderful parks.
In stark contrast to the tranquility of the parks, the souks which run off every corner of Jamaa el Fnaa, could not be different. They thrum with noice, excitement and the buzz of business activity. How so much produce can be on sale in such a concentrated area is a sight to behold. Many of the stalls sell the same sort of goods and one has be careful with the so-called branded products. They are most likely to be cheap fakes.
Some are open to the elements which others are protected by intricately carved wooden ceilings. Almost without exception though, they are criss crossed by motorcyclists going about their daily business. It is a little disconcerting and takes a short while to get used to. Occasionally, a bike will be pulling a trailer which at first sight appears too wide to fit down the narrow lanes. It is not uncommon either for products to be delivered to the stalls by donkey or mule, another reminder that you are in the East rather than the West even though the map suggests otherwise.
At the heart of all this madness is the popular tourist magnet, the Bahia Palace. Built by the Sultan's Chamberlain in the 19th Century as a statement of power. When the French arrived, it was from here they governed Marrakech and the surrounding area. After European governance in the mid-1950s, the Palace became the property of the monarch who passed it into public ownership and the place you can visit today.
The countless public rooms keep even the fiercest heat at bay but the palace's pride and joy is its 8000m² gardens. During my visit, which was out-of-season, these were being renovated thanks to a huge restoration programme. This is being paid for my the admission fees which were around €7 ($6) paid for in local currency. No card option was available when I visited.
Twenty to thirty minutes walk north from the square of Jamaa el Fnaa is the modern city centre. Here you will find all the usual business from banks to shops and restaurants to street cafes. The railway station is a further 500 metres to the east. Here, regular services serve other important centres in Morocco such as Casablanca, Fes and Tangier. There will be more about rail services in a separate blog about Casablanca.
Finally, a word of warning. The taxi service is not to be trusted if you are a western tourist. The drivers know a number of ways to trick you out of additional money. Even I fell foul of this scam and I thought I had taken all precautions. In my case, I had agreed a DM100 fare to the airport. On arrival, having tried to break down my money, I presented the driver with a DM200 note. Surprise, surprise, he had no change. Having realised I was not budging until I was given the right change we eventually compromised on change of DM60. It was my last transaction in Marrakech and left a really sour taste because I loved the city and one day could return. It has such much to commend it. I loved its spirit and energy, it's souks, food and climate. I loved everything except that darn taxi driver.
*price correct as of December 2023
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